In an atmospheric galley in one of Al Ain's numerous forts I enjoyed looking at a gallery of photos by Wilfred Thesiger. His visits to Oman, Abu Dhabi and Al Ain in the late 1940s were recorded with ‘black and white’ photography and the gallery, with its natural earth tones and simple design, displayed them beautifully and reflect Thesiger’s own yearning for austerity.

His traveling guides and companions bin Kabina and bin Gabisha are a focus of the images along with Sheikh Zayed. One of the photos is of the old tower at Maqta which, some 50 years ago, guarded the ford to the island of Abu Dhabi .

It was interesting contrast to drive past the same tower on an 8 lane motorway and walk around the Sheikh Zayed Mosque. While its exterior is a brilliant white –its interior, in contrast,  is an equally brilliant poly-chrome . Almost overflowing with floral designs the mosque sits opposite the old tower at Maqta which, some 50 years ago, guarded the ford to the island of Abu Dhabi .